STOP FIREWORKS

Latest Posts:
flame7-22-2026 Three Word Post.....The Next Generation.... (Rep.#20,238) from: GoFastRacerflameflame7-22-2026 The Totally Useless Thread IV (Rep.#409) from: GoFastRacerflameflame7-22-2026 Brrrr (Rep.#15,161) from: GoFastRacerflameflame7-22-2026 Gas price in your area (Rep.#7,437) from: GoFastRacerflameflame6-07-2026 Getting back into Ham Radio (Rep.#6) from: Carrera Eliteflame

Welcome Guest
[ Log In :: Register ]
Home » HD Forums » Forums » Boat Tech » Hardwall Stainless cooling lines?
No members are browsing this topic
Forum Led by: GoFastRacer
 
[ Track this topic :: Email this topic :: Print this topic ]    
add a reply to this topic create a new topic create a new poll
Topic: Hardwall Stainless cooling lines?, ?????????< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
miller19jMale Offline
Leo
Super Focker!

1,000 post flame500 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Solvang
Posts: 1,888
APPD 0.22
Post Rank: 34
Boat with an Engine Cover
Post Icon Posted: June 13 2003,3:38 pm Post # 1 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Has anyone run Hardwall Stainless cooling lines? I acquired a bunch of Swage-lock Stainless tube and fittings and was thinking about running them as my cooling lines. They are really nice fittings all stainless and pretty trick looking. But here is the kicker the ½ pipe to swage fittings uses a .375 inside diameter tube.

Currently I am running 5/8 inch heater hose hooked up to ½ pipe to barb fittings. The inside diameter on those fittings is pretty close to ½ inch. Am I going to restrict too much water to cool if I switch?

Here is a picture of my cooling system (it has a thermostat)

Hey Sleek Bite Me!
Back to top
| Member # 5 | Joined: 12-03-2002 |
AZKCMale Offline
Leo
 HDF Bronze Supporter
Jack of all trades. Master of none.
10,000 post flame5,000 post flame1,000 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Tucson
Posts: 16,439
APPD 1.91
Post Rank: 5
1979 20ft Hawaiian Moonraker
Post Icon Posted: June 13 2003,5:11 pm Post # 2 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
You run a t-stat, like a car ?  I've not seen that alot in boats. Your water temps seem ok? Most guys run some sort of valve to regulate the amount of water running thru the engine.

But back to your question, the hard water line set up to me is the shiznit    :good  as far as restriction goes if the ID's are close I'll bet it would work fine.

KC

God is Great, Beer is Good, and People are Crazy......

AUTO SAFETY HOUSE

Back to top
| Member # 29 | Joined: 12-18-2002 |
RoostwearMale Offline
Taurus
Hot Boater
100 post flame100 post flame
The center of my universe
Posts: 232
APPD 0.03
Post Rank: 98
1986 Commander 21' Sunstreak
Post Icon Posted: June 13 2003,5:43 pm Post # 3 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Miller, I made custom hardline for boats and street rods for the better part of 20 years. Running 1/2" will not restrict your flow in relationship to the ID of the fittings. Here's a trick I use. There are 2 determining factors on how large the ID of the fitting can be: the tangent (point of contact) with the flair, and keeping enough meat in the threaded section to not weaken it. Take a magic marker and mark the sealing surface of the fitting. Take a flaired tube with the nut and ferrule attached and thread it on the fitting handtight. Turn the tube on the fitting, then tighten it down. This will create a contact mark on the sealing surface. The undisturbed part of the mark on the sealing surface will indicate what the MAXIMUM ID you can have and still not affect the integrity of the seal. Compare it to the pipe thread end (if it's NPT). Boring the ID has given me up to 20% more flow depending on the fitting I modified.
Back to top
AOL  | Member # 85 | Joined: 2-13-2003 |
miller19jMale Offline
Leo
Super Focker!

1,000 post flame500 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Solvang
Posts: 1,888
APPD 0.22
Post Rank: 34
Boat with an Engine Cover
Post Icon Posted: June 13 2003,8:50 pm Post # 4 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
I follow what you are saying but these fittings use a two piece feral instead of a flared end. So the tubing is the smallest part of the system and its internal diameter is .375. I am just courious if that is big enough to effectively cool my system. I have attached a picture to help clarify.

On a side note I did a little experiment to see how much the flow is reduced in these lines. I took my garden hose and filled a bucket and timed how long it took to fill to the top. It took 28 seconds with the unrestricted hose. Then I put a piece of this pipe and a fitting on the end of the hose and filled the same bucket. It took 28 seconds with the smaller tubing. So If I am correct the pressure goes up and the flow stays the same. So at least in theory it should work. I think :stupid

Hey Sleek Bite Me!
Back to top
| Member # 5 | Joined: 12-03-2002 |
miller19jMale Offline
Leo
Super Focker!

1,000 post flame500 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Solvang
Posts: 1,888
APPD 0.22
Post Rank: 34
Boat with an Engine Cover
Post Icon Posted: June 13 2003,8:52 pm Post # 5 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Quote (AZKC @ June 13 2003,6:11 pm)
You run a t-stat, like a car ?  I've not seen that alot in boats. Your water temps seem ok? Most guys run some sort of valve to regulate the amount of water running thru the engine.

But back to your question, the hard water line set up to me is the shiznit    :good  as far as restriction goes if the ID's are close I'll bet it would work fine.

KC

KC,

Yes I use a thermostat kit from Rex marine. I have been very happy with it. Once my engine heats up my temp stays the same no matter if I am idling or running all out. I have never had any problems with it.  :good

Hey Sleek Bite Me!
Back to top
| Member # 5 | Joined: 12-03-2002 |
AZKCMale Offline
Leo
 HDF Bronze Supporter
Jack of all trades. Master of none.
10,000 post flame5,000 post flame1,000 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Tucson
Posts: 16,439
APPD 1.91
Post Rank: 5
1979 20ft Hawaiian Moonraker
Post Icon Posted: June 14 2003,7:56 am Post # 6 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Oh a marine kit :good I was thinking car stuff. That test you did has some physics behind it but I forgot that part of school along time ago :stupid

KC

God is Great, Beer is Good, and People are Crazy......

AUTO SAFETY HOUSE

Back to top
| Member # 29 | Joined: 12-18-2002 |
GoFastRacerMale Offline
 HDF Supporter
V-Driver For Life!

50,000 post flame10,000 post flame1,000 post flame1,000 post flame1,000 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Big River, Ca
Posts: 63,269
APPD 7.40
Post Rank: 1
Spectra20
Post Icon Posted: June 14 2003,9:14 am Post # 7 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Miller, ain't nothing wrong with 1/2 inch, that's a -08 line and that's the norm. That's what I run from the pump all the way to the dump. A little information here, if for some reason you end up having to use a flare end, remember you don't do a double flare with stainless, it will split. Also if the tube is going against an AN fitting, you will need a 37degree flare adapter for the tool. Just wanted you to be aware...Stainless lines look bitchin, beats the shit out of heater hose,LOL...Check this out!.. :good

Attached Image
Attached Image

Back to top
website  | Member # 101 | Joined: 3-03-2003 |
RoostwearMale Offline
Taurus
Hot Boater
100 post flame100 post flame
The center of my universe
Posts: 232
APPD 0.03
Post Rank: 98
1986 Commander 21' Sunstreak
Post Icon Posted: June 14 2003,9:54 am Post # 8 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Just an added note to what Gofastracer mentioned. Use thinwall stainless (.028 wall), and NEVER use seamed tubing! It's cheaper for a reason. Good luck getting a good flair without it splitting. I wouldn't use an adapted flairing tool for stainless. Rigid has an excellent compound flairing tool that can't be beat for ease and quality of flair.
The fittings you have go by a few different names depending on manufacturer. The biggest advantage to the Ferrulock design is you can make a tighter turn out of the fitting than you can with a JIC. The disadvantage is that when you compress the ferrule to seal the tube, it will compress the tubing, reducing the ID of the tube. You can still bore the ID of the fitting, but now the limiting factor is the compressed ID of the tube.
Back to top
AOL  | Member # 85 | Joined: 2-13-2003 |
GoFastRacerMale Offline
 HDF Supporter
V-Driver For Life!

50,000 post flame10,000 post flame1,000 post flame1,000 post flame1,000 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Big River, Ca
Posts: 63,269
APPD 7.40
Post Rank: 1
Spectra20
Post Icon Posted: June 14 2003,11:20 am Post # 9 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Ooops, forgot to mention the seamed junk, that stuff will split everytime when you flare it. I've never had the good stuff split on a single flare, with a double everytime!. I also use a Ridgid (don't think they come any better) tool and I use their adapter and I've always had a quality flare out of it.  :)
Back to top
website  | Member # 101 | Joined: 3-03-2003 |
miller19jMale Offline
Leo
Super Focker!

1,000 post flame500 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Solvang
Posts: 1,888
APPD 0.22
Post Rank: 34
Boat with an Engine Cover
Post Icon Posted: June 16 2003,9:40 am Post # 10 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
Sounds good I am all over it!

I have plenty of the good tubing.  I got it and the fittings from a major petro-chemical company that shall remain nameless (to protect the innocent). :D

Now I just have to pick a time to work on the boat. I guess I will wait until the end of summer now that it is working otherwise the wife will kill me!

Thanks for the help guys!  :good

Hey Sleek Bite Me!
Back to top
| Member # 5 | Joined: 12-03-2002 |
miller19jMale Offline
Leo
Super Focker!

1,000 post flame500 post flame100 post flame100 post flame100 post flame
Solvang
Posts: 1,888
APPD 0.22
Post Rank: 34
Boat with an Engine Cover
Post Icon Posted: June 16 2003,9:41 am Post # 11 see this member send this member a private message  quote this post in reply
That looks trick! I am hoping to do something like that. Without the waterpump!  :D

Edited by miller19j on June 16 2003,9:42 am

Hey Sleek Bite Me!
Back to top
| Member # 5 | Joined: 12-03-2002 |
10 replies since June 13 2003,3:38 pm < Next Oldest | Next Newest >

[ Track this topic :: Email this topic :: Print this topic ]

  		add a reply to this topic create a new topic create a new poll



Home » HD Forums » Forums » Boat Tech » Hardwall Stainless cooling lines?

navbarlogo
The Colorado River WebRing
[ Join Now | Ring Hub | Random | << Prev | Next >> ]

Please help keep HDF free. If you enjoy this site, feel free to make a donation to keep it running. THANKS!
eXTReMe Tracker